Why doesn’t the “cook

from Luca Iaccarino

There is great excitement in the Turin and Piedmontese kitchens: a whole turbillon of chefs who move from one side to the other. But almost all of them are indigenous, in the sense that they already worked in the city or in the region

There is great excitement in the Turin and Piedmontese kitchens: a whole turbillon of chefs who move from one side to the other, who leave the old road and try the new one, who abandon the pan to indulge in the embers (which in the world of gastronomy not always a bad thing). G.
just to give some examples of the news released in recent times: Fabrizio Tesse leaves Carignano and goes to the track; Lorenzo Careggio left EraGoffi and went to the Rocca di Arignano; Alessandro Uccheddu left Combo and moved to Capriccioli; news is coming at the Castle of Grinzane Cavour; Antonio Romano has now settled in Spazio7 after the farewell of Alessandro Mecca; to close the circle, a Piedmontese chef is about to arrive at Carignano.

I don’t remember such a busy end of summer, with the market-cook so lively, so turbulent. good? bad? Only history will tell – that of each of these projects – but at this moment some considerations can be made. The first: the last two and a half years so tiring have been destabilizing, they have made many want to change something in their lives, and chefs and entrepreneurs are no exception. The second: removals are fine, but I am always wary of chefs who change their shirts too often, it seems to me a symptom of restlessness, and restlessness is not a characteristic that is good for those who deal with hospitality, who need continuity, reliability. (how nice to go back to a restaurant and feel good, year after year). The third: the staff crisis is messing everything up, and projects that seemed solid actually creak for lack of cooks and even more waiters.therefore situations that seemed stable suddenly become uncertain (without mentioning the expensive bills).

The fourth and last: you will notice that in the turn of the screw I mentioned at the beginning, the cooks are almost all indigenous (with the exception of Romano), in the sense that they already worked in the city or in the region. In short: A goes to B, B goes to C, C goes to A, a round dance. This is a pity, because it does not attract new talent, new ideas. To say: the Piedmontese revelation of 2022, for me, the new chef of Madernassa, Giuseppe d’Errico, who had the hard task of taking over from the two stars of Mammoliti. Casertano, who spent many years in France and Switzerland, brought his wealth of experience to Guarene, in which there was a very good cuisine. That was a market hit. If there were more, the Turin restaurant team would become even stronger.

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September 17, 2022 (change September 17, 2022 | 19:28)



Why doesn’t the “cook-market” in Piedmont attract talent from abroad too?